Skin Show
Because stability is where it's at.PHOTO 0/6
Stability is a very good thing. Especially when it comes to vitamin C. We've all heard about how vitamin C is an effective yet temperamental ingredient because it degrades very easily. Which is why you need stabilized vitamin C in your skin care routine. Ultraceuticals Global Education Ambassador Tracey Beeby explains that when we talk about vitamin C, we're usually referring to ascorbic acid, the pure form of vitamin C. Nicole Simpson, beauty veteran and founder of Amethyst Skincare, points out that there are many forms of vitamin C available. But L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard. It can penetrate and remain bioactive in skin, neutralize free radicals, brighten hyperpigmentation and stimulate higher-quality collagen production. Simpson elaborates that there are other forms of vitamin C, such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, that can be stable on their own. They just don't have the same capacity to penetrate skin or remain bioactive once inside your skin. Plain and simple, if vitamin C is unstable, its efficacy and benefits can be compromised. Which means you won't see results on your skin reports Mark Curry, co-founder and lead formulator of The Inkey List. "Stabilized vitamin C is the only effective way to use vitamin C within a formulation," says Beeby. "If the particle is not stable, it will not be effective." Standard vitamin C can become unstable when exposed to heat, light and air. Ever had vitamin C turn orange or brownish? Then it was probably unstable says Curry. Curry also says that stabilized vitamin C has a longer shelf life and a high concentration of actives. Which will lead to brighter, healthier skin. You also need to pay attention to packaging. Simpson says that airtight or airless packaging is vital to the shelf life of any form of vitamin C. But you still have to use it or lose it. No matter how good the formula is, stabilized vitamin C won't last forever. So resist the urge to stock up on your favorite. Read on to shop some of the best stabilized vitamin C products. Image via Sunday Riley SEE NEXT PAGE: Sunday Riley C.E.O. Glow Vitamin C + Turmeric Face Oil, $80 EDITORS' BEST OF
 12 Best Acne Products for Your Clearest Skin Yet Read More
11 Best Tinted Moisturizers for Easy, On-the-Go Coverage Read More Autumn’s first weeks are upon us, and fall fever is finally setting in. As you ruminate over what to bring into your seasonal rotation, consider a supercharged vitamin C serum right up there with a sleek coat or this season's It boot. For brightening up a dull complexion and erasing sun spots, vitamin C is the gold standard of ingredients, especially as the years go on. As such, getting familiar with the powerhouse antioxidant is essential for any robust skincare strategy. “Vitamin C is perhaps the most potent topical antioxidant we have,” explains dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D., of the natural collagen booster. “It neutralizes free radical damage and protects the skin against UV light and other environmental aggressors, as well as blocking abnormal production of pigmentation to even skin tone and fade dark spots.” And while it’s best known for brightening, it can also be instrumental in skin firming, adds Los Angeles superfacialist Kate Somerville. “I have used vitamin C in my clinic for years to help with elasticity and tighten the skin around the neck and décolletage,” she says. Here, how best to utilize the hero ingredient for a brighter, smoother, and plumper complexion year-round. Choose the Right ConcentrationIdentifying the right concentration for your skin type is essential to how effective your topical vitamin C will be, says New York City dermatologist Dr. Patricia Wexler. "Begin with a low concentration of 10% and increase to 15% or 20% as tolerated," she instructs. For oily or normal skin, L-ascorbic acid is the most potent form of vitamin C and can be the most beneficial, while for dry and sensitive skin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, a water-soluble vitamin C, is less irritating. Kate Somerville +Retinol Vitamin C MoisturizerOlehenriksen C-Rush Vitamin C Gel MoisturizerSunday Riley C.E.O. Vitamin C Rich Hydration CreamREN Glow Daily Vitamin C Gel Cream MoisturizerPay Attention to pHAbsorption of a vitamin C is largely contingent on its pH level. If you have normal skin, look for one with a low pH of approximately 3.5 for optimal absorption. If you have sensitive skin, you should use a formula with a pH of 5 to 6. "This is the skin's natural pH and will not be as irritating," says Wexler. Drunk Elephant C-Firma Vitamin C Day SerumPeter Thomas Roth Potent-C Vitamin C SerumBiobare Vitamin C, B, E & Ferulic SerumLa Roche-Posay 10% Pure Vitamin C SerumGo With a SerumDesigned to deliver a high concentration of actives, serums are the most common form of delivery for vitamin C. "They keep that ingredient stable and enhance penetration through the outer skin layer," says Zeichner. As far as complementary ingredients are concerned, Wexler believes vitamin C works best in combination with vitamin E, ferulic Acid, vitamin B, and hyaluronic acid. "Vitamin C and E are both antioxidants and support each other," she explains, adding that ferulic acid is another antioxidant which boosts and stabilizes both vitamin C and vitamin E in fighting free radical damage and collagen production. That being said, sensitive skin types might benefit from mixing their serum into a moisturizer, or opting for a vitamin C-infused moisturizer for gentler delivery. SkinCeuticals CE FerulicL’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives Pure Vitamin C SerumDr. Barbara Sturm The Good C Vitamin C SerumPayot Concentré ÉclatStart SlowlyTo keep skin happy, take a gradual approach when adding vitamin C to your regimen. "With any active, it’s important to start slowly when incorporating ingredients into your routine," says Somerville. "I’ve seen some amazing results with clients who've added vitamin C into their regimen at three times a week and worked up to daily use." To that end, don't expect instant gratification. "It takes several weeks of continuous use to start to see improvement in skin tone," says Zeichner, adding that because it's a key ingredient for prevention, some benefits will be imperceptible. 111Skin Vitamin C Brightening BoosterHyper Skin Brightening Dark Spot Vitamin C SerumUrsa Major Brighten Up Vitamin C SerumRenée Rouleau Vitamin C&E TreatmentStore It SafelyVitamin C serums come in two broad categories: Water-based and anhydrous (which literally means "without water"). The former is more unstable and light sensitive, and is typically held in opaque or amber-colored bottles for that reason, while the latter tends to be more stable, even in the presence of sunlight. No matter what kind you opt for, ensuring your vitamin C is stabilized and kept airtight in a dark, cool space is essential. "If the color becomes dark or cloudy it has already oxidized," cautions Wexler, adding that the same is true if you detect a rancid odor. BeautyStat Universal C Skin RefinerTatcha Violet-C Brightening SerumTata Harper Resurfacing SerumObagi Medical Professional-C SerumLayer It Under SPFUnlike hydroxyacids or retinol, vitamin C does not make the skin more vulnerable to sunburn. That being said, the most potent forms of vitamin C are vulnerable to light exposure, and therefore the use of vitamin C must be in conjunction with broad-spectrum UVA/UVB coverage. The good news is that, when layered underneath sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 30, vitamin C protects the skin even further. "Think of it as a safety net to help neutralize free radical damage that can occur from UV light penetration despite our best protection efforts with sunscreen," says Zeichner. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep CreamGlossier Super GlowPaula's Choice C15 Super BoosterPCA Skin C-Quench Antioxidant SerumHow can vitamin C be stable?Solid vitamin C is relatively stable, but it decomposes rather quickly when dissolved in water. Factors such as pH, temperature, oxygen, and the presence of catalysts (iron, copper) influence the decomposition process. The lowest rate of oxidation is observed at pH 3, where vitamin C solutions are the most stable.
Does vitamin C need to be stabilized?"Stabilized vitamin C is the only effective way to use vitamin C within a formulation," says Beeby. "If the particle is not stable, it will not be effective." Standard vitamin C can become unstable when exposed to heat, light and air.
Which vitamin C is stable in skincare?#3: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
MAP is one of the most stable forms of vitamin C. It's also one of the most hydrating in its class, and can effectively soothe skin irritations with its anti-inflammatory properties. It's a water-soluble form of vitamin C, meaning it is best used in water based formulas.
Which preservative is used in vitamin C serum?Phenoxyethanol is a perfume fixative, antiseptic, and preservative that's common in cosmetics. Ethoxydiglycol is considered a “penetration enhancer” when used in cosmetics, which is to say it's a solvent that keeps our Vitamin C Serum in the optimal consistency.
|
