Today’s modelers have excellent choices of hobby-based clearcoat spray paints that will enable a super-glossy result without unrealistic buildup or obscuring finely engraved details. Here are my top choices, including their pros and cons (as I’ve encountered them). Of course, your experience may vary, so I recommend trying all the options before picking a favorite.

Testors Wet-Look/Extreme Wet-Look Clear Lacquer

Pros: Relatively forgiving to application errors. Appear to be the most popular choice among advanced model-car builders who do not use two-part clearcoats.

Cons: Shrinks as it dries, leaving a fine, orange-peel texture. Takes a long time to reach 100% hardened. Testors lacquer cans can develop leaky bottoms over time. Testors has been reconfiguring its hobby paint lines in recent years and availability may be affected.

Advice: Don’t panic if the paint appears milky immediately after application; even in humid weather, it usually dries clear.

Tamiya Clear (TS-13)

Pros: Levels well, requiring less post-painting tweaks to yield a high-gloss result. Smooth finish if all goes well during application. Widely available.

Cons: Less forgiving of mistakes during application; can eat into base coats (causing base-coat colors to pull away from engraved panel lines, edges, etc.) if applied before the base coat color has dried for several days.

Advice: Can cause bubbles to form on the painted surface if applied too close to the surface, so err on the side of caution and paint from a greater distance than with other spray cans. Be cautious about applying in a cold environment.

Mr. Hobby Mr. Super Clear Gloss (B-513) and Gloss Topcoat (B-501)

Pros: Both products apply well, seem to be very forgiving during application, and dry quickly to a much harder surface than some other clears.

Cons: I have not found any cons after multiple uses.

Advice: The formulas are somewhat different between the two Mr. Hobby paints, so I recommend trying them both. FSM contributor Bob Downie says he is impressed with Gloss Topcoat and has decanted and airbrushed it when combined with Mr. Hobby Mr. Color Thinner.

Testors/Model Master High Gloss Clearcoat Enamel

Pros: Glossy and smooth finish when appropriately polished after it’s dry.

Cons: Slow to dry. Yellows over time, which is most visible when used over white, pales colors, or silver paints. Modern enamel formulas area somewhat less forgiving than their 1960s-1980s equivalents. Testors has been reconfiguring its hobby paint lines in recent years and availability may be affected.

Advice: Use with a dehydrator to hasten drying time and fully harden paint surfaces. Consider trying one of the lacquer-based alternatives described above and see which results you prefer.

Sealing in the paint/weathering is up to you what you want to use as to the finish you want. Most of my builds have a final seal of either satin or matt. If i wanted a brand new look then i would use gloss.

I use a gloss seal before i place down decals so i can minimise the chances of silvering under the decal. After that i use my matt/satin finishes so my weathering has something to 'bite' onto

• 3

  Do you apply a Matt coat to seal all painting and weathering in when you finish a model?

Yes, Winsor & Newton Galeria matt. Pete

• 4

I do, usually a satin or matt coat, depending on the subject.

• 5

The answer is yes - generally! A coat of matt varnish flattens out all the various surface textures left by different paints/weathering to give an even finish. I also sometimes use a slight paint 'tint' in the final coat to give a dusty effect. - An exception is overall gloss metal finishes on aircraft, varnish can really mess them up, so either experiment to see how it goes, or leave it! Dave

Deleted member 5496

Guest

• 6

Depends on the subject.

At the moment building airliners very little weathering & they tend in the real to look glossy.

However with a model, for me, glossy looks over the top. So a satin is what I go for.

For miltary aircraft they are in the real very matt as part of the camouflage. Think also if effects (weathering) has been applied a satin or gloss would take away some of that it would not, for me, look right.

Good idea to have a coat of varnish which ever type as it does make it easier to clean the model.

Best matt I have found is Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethene (not acrylic or polyurethene).

Often if I am not sure I have an A4 plasti card & experiment. Colours, varnishes over colours etc. Also effects testing differrent teachniques including the effect of changing the PSI. etc. One side of the card I keep with the experiments.

Laurie

• 7

I use some, either Matt or Satin, normally a slight satin. Depending on the varnish some Matts are too Matt for my liking

• 8

Thanks everyone!

I ended up applying a flat coat and hopefully I can share the photos of the finished model on the forum tomorrow

Based on some of the suggestions you’ve shared I can see even clear coating can be a complex topic to explore if you have an airbrush. I’m very tempted to buy one as it seems to be such a versatile tool.

For now I’m using mr hobby top coat sprays which I guess is ok but not as nice as I can see YouTube in terms of coverage of the clear coat.

Thanks!

Jakko

Way past the mad part

• 9

I generally don’t, except for wargames models — those get a coat of varnish to help them stand up to handling.

Display models, though, I only vanish if I need to for the effect I’m after. For example, if I’ve used gloss paint for some reason, but the model needs to be matt. Otherwise, I don’t really see the use of it, and actually, feel that varnish is one of those things that can too easily go wrong.

• 10

I varnish mine simply to harmonise the finish over the decals with the paintwork. I prefer aircraft in semi Matt rather than full Matt, but military vehicles in full Matt. Cars and bikes are finished in gloss. To be honest, I find Tamiya varnish works fine through an airbrush, but certainly wouldn’t brush paint with it.....if you need to brush paint I find artists varnishes are the most reliable.

What is the purpose of a topcoat?

Topcoats are the final coats for use over primers or fillers. They are formulated to provide good adherence to the undercoat, the desired appearance (colour, gloss, structure) to the painted unit, additional protection from the weather and aid in other performance requirements.

What does a clear coat do on models?

The final clear coat is to protect the paint and decals and give an overall finish. To echo Mike, a clear gloss coat is very important as a base to put decals on without their "silvering"- little bubbles under it that make it look foggy. A gloss paint finish works as well, but most military models as matte or flat.

What can I use as a clear coat on plastic models?

The Best Spray Paint Clearcoats for Scale Models.

Testors Wet-Look/Extreme Wet-Look Clear Lacquer. Pros: Relatively forgiving to application errors. ... .

Tamiya Clear (TS-13) Pros: Levels well, requiring less post-painting tweaks to yield a high-gloss result. ... .

Mr. Hobby Mr. ... .

Testors/Model Master High Gloss Clearcoat Enamel..

What is the purpose of clearcoat?

Clear Coat Provides Valuable Body Protection This outermost layer of transparent paint serves as a protective barrier that prevents UV radiation and weather from damaging the colored paint layer. Clear coat also takes abrasions that might otherwise scratch your paint job.